Elegy for A Bridge

The Big Creek Bridge (still standing, thank goodness!)

There is something about bridges. I can't quite put my finger on it. Perhaps it's their monumental size, combined with graceful engineering and design that makes them both an imposing edifice and a thing of architectural beauty. Perhaps it's their imposing and sometimes improbable span across high gulches or great bodies of water. Occasionally, it's just the fact that they've always been there for as long as anyone can remember, until it seems a permanent part of the landscape, something that has always been there and always will be.

Until, of course, they are not.

The truly grand examples, the covered bridges of Winterset, or New England, the stone arch bridges, the soaring, monumental feats of engineering such as the Golden Gate, are perhaps some of the best-loved monuments to transportation, connectivity, and the passage of time. Thought time marches steadily on, we stubbornly cling to them. It doesn't matter that they can only handle one or two lanes of traffic at a time. We don't care that they are getting creaky and in need of extra (and in some cases extraordinary) maintenance in order to safely bear the wear and tear of modern transportation. And heaven knows no one likes to think about the money it will cost to replace it with a new one. In spite of practicality, safety, and expense, our sentiment for those graceful aging spans sometimes seems to outweigh even our common sense. It's still good, we tell ourselves, and many communities have gone to extraordinary measures to save them. We move them to county parks to become part of light duty trail systems. We close them permanently, maintain them as a tourist attraction and build a whole new road into town. The ones we keep around, we keep because they are inherently beautiful, and a part of the landscape we can not bear to lose. We make memories upon them, and thus they become bridges not only to the other side of the bank, but to the other side of our lives as well. They connect us to those who came before, and to those who will come after.

Or so we like to imagine.

I lost my favorite bridge this week. The Ely Street Bridge, a graceful iron lady that spanned Big Creek on the south east side of Bertram withstood the ravages of the great flood of 2008, only to be taken out by a quick flash flood and a particularly large tree this time around. Built in 1891, she was one of three bridges that once served the small community, together with the Blaine's Crossing Bridge (still standing, but decommissioned in the 1960's shortly after Highway 13 was put through, and the Big Creek Bridge (also washed out this week, but mercifully, still standing), they connected Bertram to the world and the surrounding farmers to Bertram.

From the time I was a little child, the Ely Street bridge was an old familiar route. Crossing it once meant coming home, situated as it was, only a minute or two away from my grandparent's farm. It was the bridge we rode our horses across and under, considering it both an essential part of their training as tractable mounts while giving us both a bit of a thrill and a challenge as we briefly considered the possibility of our snorting, shying steeds plunging over the side into the treacherously shallow waters of the creek below. Later, it was my scenic route home, the occasional cruise down memory lane, connecting the route between the farm where I was born, the more suburban house a few miles away where I finished growing up, and the farm I recently purchased and intend to spend out my days. The Ely Street Bridge spanned not only both sides of Big Creek, giving me a handy back road connection between my old home and my new one, but a connection of memory to these three major phases of my life.

But time passes, seasons change, graceful iron ladies fall, and one day you come to the familiar crossing only to discover that this time, you really can't go home again.

The Ely Street Bridge collapse

I knew it the moment I drove down the hill and failed to see her bright red girders waiting for me, but rather a gaping expanse where red girders should have been. Surprisingly, I was not quite as sad or heartbroken as I had expected to be. At least, I thought, she went out like a bridge, on her own terms, waging her own battle with Mother Nature, and finally losing. As an added mercy, she went with no lives lost save her own. She was not retired, carted away to some county park as an amusement or bypassed and left to stand and rot. There can be no argument, no political debate, her fate is no longer something for an affectionate and conflicted populace to decide. She is simply gone. She cannot come back. We will miss her, but she managed to leave us with no regrets.

I was not alone that day in mourning her loss. A family was already there before me, looking at the wreckage, and when I got out of the car, the first words that came out of my mouth were: "Oh no, my bridge is gone."

The young girl standing at the edge of the precipice nodded slowly. "My bridge," she said. "I walk here every day."

It occurred to me that for an aging monumental edifice that had not moved an inch since the day of it's construction some 123 years ago, the Ely Street Bridge really got around. As more and more people showed up to survey the damage, it became readily apparent that she had been carrying on an exclusive, intimate relationship with nearly everyone in town.
It was the same sad statement echoed over and over again by everyone who showed up:

"My bridge is gone."

Never our bridge.

My bridge.

Troll Bridges

Driving to work this morning, I was thinking about troll bridges.

Really, it's all A.H.'s fault (Australian Housemate). She was telling me just the other day about a perfect little troll bridge she spotted on Highway 100 southeast of Marion, between Highway 13 and East Post Road. It's low and square and hidden in the ground on one of those roads to not-quite-nowhere. Nowhere right now, perhaps, but the Marion City Council has built it nonetheless with the greatest confidence that the suburbs and housing develoments will indeed come. In the meantime, it is the perfect habitation for the perfectly modern troll, stark and utilitarian, dark and unobstrusive and conveniently located next to a major highway. (Although A.H. is of the belief that the troll living there is not so much modern and upwardly mobile as displaced from an older bridge).

A.H. got onto the topic of Troll bridges, because unlike me, she styles herself an "Imagineer" (read starving artist for all the rest of us Midwesterners), and like many other divorced, single mother Imagineers all across the country, she struggles with the prospect of finding fun, affordable, family friendly activities with which she can entertain herself and her three boys aged 11-15. After all, our internet data plan is limited, and the library only has so many free DVD's you can check out.

A.H. tossed out the idea of going out on a troll hunt when the weather finally turns pleasant in the spring, and to her surprise, the boys bit. So, they are planning an afternoon of driving through Linn County searching out bridges and poking under them to see if any trolls might be in residence. If not, they intend to grab their sketch pads and draw a picture of the kinds of trolls that should live under those bridges, because as we all know, every bridge has to have a troll. I look forward to seeing the troll gallery they return with, but in the mean time, my mind has turned to the subject of the bridges themselves.

Frankly, I think Linn County has some of the best bridges in Iowa, and of those, I think there are no bridges more suited to a tour than those in Bertram Township. --Granted, I speak with the bias of a life-long resident of both Bertram and Linn County, but I can't help myself. I love Linn County and I love old bridges, especially the ones that time seems to have forgotten, tucked away on a winding gravel road that will raise the hair of even the most seasoned Iowa driver in the winter time. But then getting there is half the adventure, isn't it?

So, when A.H. and her boys finally head out in search of trolls this spring, here are my top reccommendations for creaky old bridges to check out.

#1 Ely Street Bridge:

Located on the transition of Ely Street in Bertram toEast Bertram Road SE, this grand old iron lady spans a winding section of Big Creek. It is my personal favorite not because it has the most beautiful setting in Linn County (see #2 for that), but because it is the bridge I grew up on. Built in 1891 by J.E. Jayne and Son of Iowa City, this iron through truss bridge is a nice example of iron bridges by a local builder. The decking is asphalt over wood with additional wooden guard rails. However, as a child, I remember the pre-asphalt days of the early 1980's when our ponies would shy and spook at the prospect of clomping across the worn wooden decking  with a few perilous holes that peered down to the waters of Big Creek that trickled below. Every horse I have ever owned has been ridden across that bridge. It is an essential element of their training.

Trolls? I personally have never seen trolls, but all of my horses swear they are there, just waiting to reach out from underneath the bridge and nab a horse for a tasty snack.

See it for yourself: Ely Street Bridge: http://bridgehunter.com/ia/linn/640/

#2 Big Creek Road Bridge:
This Bridge has my vote for the most beautiful spot in Linn County. Located on Big Creek Road headed east from Bertram, this bridge is a Pratt through truss bridge. It's not so much the bridge I am about here, but the view. The bridge serves as an amazing transition from deeply wooded timber on the north side to open oak savannah turned pastureland on the south through which Big Creek peacefully winds. On many a fine spring, summer or even fall day you will find the banks of Big Creek dotted with the Drahos family's white Charlais cattle. This herd has been in residence for as long as I can remember, and I'm guessing white cows have been grazing the banks of Big Creek for more than 50 years. One fine day this winter I actually was treated to the site of three amazing bald eagles perched in the trees and soaring in the sky just above the bridge.

Trolls? Well, a very likely spot for them. Lots of timber for cover and plenty of white cows to snack on if there are no bridge travelers. Also listed as a geocache spot. I'm thinking it's a troll conspiracy...

See it for yourself: http://bridgehunter.com/ia/linn/220880/

#3 Bloomington Road Bridge

Not the oldest bridge or even the only iron bridge in Linn County by any means, but certainly on one of the oldest roads. For the historically uninformed transportation enthusiasts, the Bloomington Road is what remains of one of the earliest pioneer roads in Linn County. Originally running from the town of Bloomington (nowdays better known as Muscatine) on the Misssissippi River to Marion, (the original county seat of Linn County) the Bloomington Road dates back to the territorial days of Iowa. Linn County Pioneer Dyer Usher, of Ushers Ferry fame, is said to have traveled the Bloomington Road between Cedar Rapids and Muscatine as early as 1839. This Bridge is also noteable for its status as a "Proclamation Route" bridge for the Lincoln Highway. When the first "coast to coast" paved highway was laid out in 1913, the Lincoln Highway came from Mount Vernon, over this bridge, through Marion to Cedar Rapids and continued west. The route was changed in the 1920's, bypassing this bridge and Marion for a more direct route up Mount Vernon Road into Cedar Rapids.

Trolls? Being on one of the oldest roads in Linn County there's a good chance of it!

See it for yourself: http://bridgehunter.com/ia/linn/220800/

#4 Indian Creek Bridge:
Personal bias aside, this bridge is a must-see. Not only is it on the National Register of Historic Places, it is one of the most important bridges in Iowa. It's a rare, double intersection Pratt through truss bridge built around 1876 and spans Indian Creek just north of the Indian Creek Nature Center. .

Trolls? I don't take that route often, but I imagine with the nearby Sac and Fox Trail, it should prove an inviting habitat for the discerning troll. Perhaps you can stop in to the Nature Centure and inquire if they have had any sightings

See it for yourself: http://bridgehunter.com/ia/linn/220850/

These are just a few of the historic bridges you can travel in Bertram township. There's more iron to be found on Rosedale Road or just off of Highway 13 and there are even a few quaint cement bridges here and there from the early days of the Lincoln Highway. All in all, the Bertram bridges make for a wonderful afternoon driving tour and can be seen in just a couple of hours, depending on whether or not you stop for a picnic or a photo op.

If you want to take my personal tour of the Bertram bridges, you can find it here:
https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=217420727059360318007.0004d58b130633276bab9&msa=0


I would be remiss, however, if I failed to include some of the great bridges to scout for the more urban, city troll. Rural bridges have their quaint charm, but Cedar Rapids has a few gems that should not be forgotten. If you are taking the kids out for an urban troll hunt, you might want to check out these.

#1. Stone bridge in Ellis Park:

Tucked away in Ellis Park, this 100+ year old stone bridge is one of the Cedar Rapids Parks Department's hidden treasures. This bridge appears in some of the earliest postcards of Cedar Rapids, and still survives today. It's location in the quiet setting of Ellis Park makes it an excellent spot for some up close exploration, if you dare!

Trolls? Unknown. The habitat is not as conducive to an easy snack as some of the rural bridges, on the other hand, any good city troll can always hop the bus and hit the nearest grocery store. On the plus side, it's location in the hilly Ellis Park makes it less likely to flood for trolls who can't swim.

#2 Bever Park Bridges

Bever Park also has some great bridges for up-close-and-personal troll investigation. This small stone bridge adjacent to the Old MacDonald's Farm parking lot dates to the park's early days, and is one of the few structures to have survived a full century of public use. With its horse and buggy days long in the past, it does seem a bit of a foot bridge to nowhere, but the gentle grade also makes it ideal for some close up creek exploration. For a little more of a high bridge adventure, take the kids up the hill towards the splash pads and cross the new iron foot bridge beside Bever Parks iconic boulder.

Trolls? Well... the live animal exhibits over at Old Mac Donald's Farm do have some billy goats...

#3 Czech Village Bridge of Lions:

Built in 1989, this is not by any means the oldest bridge in Cedar Rapids, but spanning the stretch of the Cedar River between historic Czech Village and the revitalized New Bohemia district, this bridge is made for walking...and sitting ...and fishing. The alcoves decorated with the iconic stone lions make it clear this is a bridge for pedestrians and bicycles as well as cars. While you are there, stop in to some of the great local shops in the village or New Bohemia district, or visit the museums to learn more about the people and cultures that influenced this part of Cedar Rapids.

Trolls? Maybe... but it is possible they only speak Czech and they definitely stop for kolaches!